by Antonis Giaroutzidis
One of my most recent journeys took me to the captivating land of Ireland—a country that has endured much: the Great Famine, the Anglo-Irish War, civil strife, a bailout program—and yet, in recent years, appears to be rediscovering its path. It is summertime, and I find myself in the city center, waiting at a traffic light to cross to the opposite pavement. The sun plays hide-and-seek with the clouds, the temperature is perfect for an unhurried stroll, when suddenly a voice beside me breaks the moment:
Lovely day, good morning
Good morning, I reply
A stranger—perhaps seventy years old, dressed in a fine light blue shirt—greets me. Just like that…kindly…effortlessly…with a quiet warmth. I am taken aback. What is happening here? I wonder.
“A city is shaped not merely by its monuments and museums, but above all by its people.”
Dublin—meaning “black swamp”—is not a city that overwhelms at first glance, as, for instance, the medieval Edinburgh might, lying in the same northern corner of Europe. Yet it is a place that slowly, quietly begins to speak to you in its own language, revealing its hidden charms. This is the city of the celebrated writer Oscar Wilde—do read the exquisite novel The Picture of Dorian Gray. It is also the city of U2, one of the world’s most iconic rock bands. Who has not heard their timeless tracks With or Without You or the beautifully simple yet deeply expressive Stay?
And of course, it is the home of the renowned and distinctive Guinness beer; be sure to visit the Guinness Storehouse and take in the view from the glass dome (roof), even beneath the rain (tickets available online only).
Stroll along Grafton Street in the historic heart of the city. This elegant pedestrian avenue, lined with department stores and famous fashion brands, invites you to indulge in a little shopping. Street musicians and tap dancers animate the space, making you feel part of Ireland’s rich musical tradition. Here you will also discover the charming Bewley’s Oriental Café, distinguished by its unique décor. Do not miss the traditional Guinness Chocolate Cake—it is exquisite! Continue on to Temple Bar and Fleet Street, where the city reveals its most vibrant character. Cobblestone walkways brimming with flowers, color, energy, and life, lined with bars and pubs that draw you into another world. All around, small stages come alive with live performances—duos of musicians, often with guitars, violin, and flute, playing Irish melodies along with other music. Doors remain open from 11:30 in the morning until late at night, every day. No reservations, no doormen—just a shared experience. Everyone becomes part of the same gathering, a Guinness in hand, united by music. Here, music reveals its true power: strangers from across the world come together as one.
Wander along O’Connell Street and its surrounding lanes; take the tram and observe how remarkably sociable and expressive people are—laughing, teasing, connecting. Walk the quieter streets along the River Liffey and admire the horizon after rainfall. It is the ideal moment for capturing beautifully composed, atmospheric photographs against a glowing backdrop. Visit Trinity College, one of the world’s oldest and most distinguished universities, admired for its masterful architecture. Above all, step into the famed Book of Kells library, where the blue globe—a remarkable artistic intervention—stands prominently at its center, captivating at first sight. Here, time seems to pause, if only for a moment, for everyone.
And if all this leaves you in need of rest, offering a brief escape from the city’s pace, St. Stephen’s Green Park is your refuge at the heart of the city. Beautiful, adorned with vibrant flowers, fountains, and small lakes, it invites you to lie upon the grass and embrace the city’s quieter side. If the rain returns, the indoor Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre nearby will undoubtedly impress. Within, you will find everything: from clothing boutiques and cozy cafés to restaurants, collectible vinyl records, DVDs, and artwork. All that is required is time and a willingness to explore —nothing more (perhaps a little money). Next stop: St. Patrick’s Cathedral. Simply surrender to the grandeur and the magic of its stained glass. A true architectural jewel, steeped in history. As for Phoenix Park—perhaps the largest urban park in Europe—little needs to be said. Can you imagine walking among vivid flowers, monuments, and lakes, while deer roam freely just fifty meters away? (And do not bother searching for litter—you will not find a single trace!).
No journey to Ireland is complete without venturing into the countryside—without witnessing its lush, rolling landscapes, its pastures and characteristic farmhouses scattered across hillsides, and the island’s steep, rugged shores. Do not deny yourself the unique experience of hearing the distant roar of the Atlantic Ocean’s waves. Yes, you have guessed correctly—you must visit the Cliffs of Moher, a breathtaking, cinematic landscape that leaves you speechless. You know it, even if you have never been there—you have seen it countless times on screen, instantly recognizable for its stark yet captivating beauty.
As for Belfast, just two hours by train from Dublin, with its striking City Hall and the elegant Royal Avenue—we shall leave that for another time. After all, this belongs to Northern Ireland (and if you plan to visit, an ETA will be required). And Galway—does the name sound familiar? A small Irish city, welcoming and warm, clean, colorful, and full of life, brimming with visitors. It is well worth dedicating several hours—perhaps even an overnight stay—to this enchanting place. Walk through Eyre Square, along Quay Street and the Latin Quarter, and by the river’s edge. Try the Fish and Chips at McDonagh’s—it is exceptional.
Dawn breaks. The city sleeps. The moon gently casts a silver hue upon the River Liffey. I am on my way back. I close my eyes, rest my head softly against the bus window, and turn time backwards—returning to that chance encounter with the unknown gentleman in the city center:
Lovely day, good morning
Good morning, I reply
Just like that…kindly…effortlessly…with a quiet warmth…
Antonis Giaroutzidis 14/12/25